the perfect fit: sleeves

Knitting top-down, set-in sleeves is a technique I learned years ago, and from that first time it became my go-to sleeve construction.  It is the best way to get a perfectly fitted sleeve.   It occurred to me that many experienced knitters aren't familiar with this simple and fool-proof construction.  This sleeve technique can replace any standard sleeve that has a bell shape at the top.  I've only used it for stockinette, and in fact  think it would only have success with stockinette, but I'll show you the how-to, then you can decide for yourself.  

So here I go with fit again.  It's my thing, and I want to help you to make it your thing too.  Getting a good fit is one of the bonuses of hand knits and each fit technique we master, the nicer our sweaters are, right?  For many of us, realizing we can change the length of our sweaters was a genuine eureka moment.  What?  Such freedom! I could actually add length to accommodate my long waist, genius! My next eureka moment came with adjusting the width of my sweater depending if I wanted negative ease (tighter fit) or positive ease (roomy fit) or no ease at all (body skimming).  But we don't have to stop there: adding more or less waist shaping and adjusting the neckline are two more ways you can make a better fit.  But today, it's all about the sleeves, so let's get started. 

When I start a new pattern, I like to pull out a similar style sweater that I already own; one whose fit I love.  The sweater's measurements are what I'll want to recreate in the sweater I'm knitting. Compare these measurements to those in your pattern, making use of the schematics that are usually at the end of every pattern. Make your adjustments and get knitting, measuring as you go along.  

The same is for the sleeve.  The sleeve scythe, or the opening where the sleeve goes,  is totally customizable.  Measure that opening and adjust from there.  It this is a sweater you will be wearing right next to your skin, you might like the look of a more fitted sleeve.  If this is a sweater you will most likely be wearing over a shirt,  such as a cardigan, you'll likely want the opening a little larger to accommodate for that. Top-down set-in sleeves give you even more freedom.  You'll never have too much sleeve and not enough sweater or vice versa,  avoiding any potential puckers once and for all.  And, this sleeve will fit your arm.  First things first; knit the sleeve scythe to the size of a sweater that fits you.  The pattern may say 8", but your perfect-fit sweater may say 8 1/2".  Remember, the pattern is giving you a basic size, and it's the rare person that fits that model exactly.

To knit the top-down set-in sleeves:  Knit the front(s) and back, then seam the shoulders. Seam up the sides from bottom up, leaving the last 2-3 inches under the arm un-seamed for now.  Using a circular needle with right side facing and starting at the underarm, pick up stitches all around the back arm scythe to the shoulder seam (the ratio is 1 stitch per 2 rows).  Place a marker at the shoulder seam and pick up the same amount of stitches down the front arm.  If you have 30 stitches up the back, you will need 30 stitches down the front.  

Now you will begin using "wrap and turns" to knit short rows to shape the bell.

On knit side: Knit to the stitch you want to wrap, bring yarn between needles from back to front. Slip stitch from left needle to right needle purl-wise.  Bring yarn between needles again, from front to back. Slip stitch back to left needle, purl-wise.  Turn work to begin next row.

On purl side:  Purl to the stitch you want to wrap, bring yarn between needles from front to back. Slip stitch from left needle to right needle purl-wise.  Bring yarn between needles again, from back to front.  Slip stitch back onto left needle purl-wise. Turn work to begin next row.

Row 1:  knit stitches up the front to 5 stitches past marker, wrap and turn,

Row 2:  purl to 5 stitches past marker, wrap and turn.  

Row 3:  knit to your last wrap and turn, wrap and turn next stitch.

Row 4:  purl to your last wrap and turn, wrap and turn next stitch.

Repeat rows 3 and 4 until all stitches have been incorporated into the bell.

If you knit your sleeves in the round, join for working in the round.

If you knit your sleeves flat, cast on one stitch each side for seaming and continue working to end.

For either way, you can add any sleeve shaping desired.  Generally the decreases are made every 2 inches, but try it on frequently to get it perfect. Knit until desired length, adding what ever finish the pattern calls for, ribbing, lace, or whatever, at this point it's like any other top-down pattern. 

So you won't have to keep looking at this post when you're knitting, I've just uploaded printable instructions on one page, get it here!

Well, that's it!  Look at the pictures below for more help, but I do think you'll be able to make this work for you, it's quite easy and it looks fantastic.

As I was writing this post I happened upon this book from Quince and Co., Top-Down by Elizabeth Doherty.  I haven't seen the book, but it looks very promising and I'm sure would give you lots of detailed information. 

One more thing, a little birdie told me there will be a Knit FIT KAL soon.  That's all I know, I don't know the gauge, the yarn, the style or the when.  I just know it's in the works and I also know I will definitely jump on board that knit-along.  As soon as I know more I will let you know.